From Bling to Blah?? Rules for Keeping Your Bling Sparkling

Avoid common "bling abuse" mistakes..

The Holidays are almost here and for many of us that means on top of our busy shopping schedules we're trying to get our outfits organized for office parties and family get together occasions. It also is the time of year when we are hauling out jewelry that has been neglected for 11 months!!!  Tarnish (gasp!), yellowing (ahhh!), and things that have gotten loose from being shoved around in the jewelry box all summer, it is all there! Oh my what a mess we have! So what do we do to get that fresh from the pages of the jewelry catalog look? Proper storage and cleaning are the answer.

 First of all we need to remember that identification stamps and tags are everything in deciding how to clean things.  Sterling silver and gold  are specifically marked with a number from 10-24 KT and .925 or the word "sterling". They will have special cleaning agents that will remove tarnish and restore luster. Anything that is plated or filled needs a different kind of care. Plate stamps will have an extra letter or two in the stamping like this "14KTGF" which is a sign of electroplating. Second please remember that stones in your jewelry have different kinds of polish and finishes that can be destroyed rather quickly in cleaning agents. This is true even if the metals go unharmed. Read your labels and tags before you accidentally turn your treasures into trash!

Metals 101

 Real gold and diamonds are about the only combination that you can safely clean in a gold cleaning agent. Silver agents are much harsher than gold cleaners and should only clean silver, copper, brass and diamonds. Be careful as silver polish and silver cleaning agents can strip enamel from sterling charms and colors from dyed copper. Some newer products are formulated for mixed materials but you need to READ those labels carefully. Sterling should be stamped .925 or .950, but beware that jewelry bought in some foreign countries is plated, and should be tested for metal purity before immersing in an agent even if it is stamped. - If it is attracted to a magnet, you know it is not pure. 

Below is an example of a ring that is stamped sterling silver, but had gold plating. It was immersed by the owner for cleaning by the stone prongs and the plating came off. The silver now has no luster because it was not buffed or rhodium plated as high shine sterling often is. Note how the prongs are a different shade and the bottom of the band has no luster. This is the result of Tarnex use by someone without any knowledge of jewelry care. The silver scrap value is the same but the eye appeal is seriously compromised.

For the best success with cleaning plated metals, get a a silver polish cloth and try to keep methods of cleaning DRY to prevent oxidization of the metals. Also storing these kinds of jewelry in a baggie with a piece of chalk will help to keep your treasures around much longer!  Don't mix your metals. Metals oxidize at different rates, but mixing them during storage makes the process happen much faster! This is especially true for metals that are of different ages. Sort them by type before storage. Copper will often patina faster than many other metals.

Remember that wetness and water are the enemy here! While most people remove rings before doing dishes or cleaning the house, they forget to care for bracelets, which need to be taken off as well. The only exception of course are medic alert bracelets, don't take them off. Removal in jewelry care is not the only important factor, where they end up is important too. Don't store jewelry in the bathroom drawers or in your car ashtray, ever! Changes in air moisture are high in places like this due to showering and humidity changes. Keep your stuff in something that has the ability to let moisture out but not invite it in. 3M makes special tabs that can be placed in boxes and containers that will slow the tarnishing process. Little silica bags from your meds or shoe boxes can work great too. 

A little side note - Human sweat is also a silent killer for costume pieces because we don't think about how it effects our jewelry! Wiping off all of your chains with a dry cloth before you put them away will add many uses for plated jewelry. Also remember that you can prolong finish on jewelry by opting not to wear it when the dog days of summer are here, because you are guaranteed to be sweaty. Opt for wood, shells, and organics instead.

Claspology 101

A good clasp, or lack there of, can be the deal breaker for me in jewelry. Anything that has signs of thin plating or poor quality is off the table. Spending more for a sterling clasps and gold filled clasps can greatly improve the life of your costume pieces. Clasps have the most contact with the skin and often catch the most accidental moisture contact. Spacers that are smaller than stones will often last 3 - 4 times longer than the clasps. 

 When you wash your hands at a public place, stick your wrists under the hand dryers for a moment to try to keep your bracelets and clasps dry. Also if you are doing anything during winter, remember we often get snow up the sleeves of our coats. It is best to stick your bracelets in your purse until after you have cleared your windows or shoveled your walk.  

Stone Stuff

Stones are beautiful! They enhance the texture and allure of our jewelry, but like all things precious they need special care. Many stones are coated to increase the shine and to remove roughness that can cause snagging on clothes. It is suggested that you do not immerse stones, pearls, shells, woods, or any organics into jewelry cleaning solutions. Diamonds are the only real stone that you can immerse (although many CZ's are considered safe it is still a risk where colorfastness is concerned). Only one moment in these chemicals will completely destroy many stones that have a low Mohs hardness. I often use a little bit of Ivory brand liquid dish soap and a soft tooth brush to gently clean around prongs and crevices of stone jewelry. If I need to have something nasty taken off the band that will not polish off, I use a q-tip and sparingly put Tarnex on the band, remembering that there is still a huge risk in doing so. 

A Tahitian man taught me a trick to preserve mother of pearl and pearls when they are worn often. Rub them with a tiny amount of baby oil before wear. It keeps the luster high and protects finish from damage. 

I hope you have found this information helpful! To read more insights and to find my store visit

Facebook J Dalton Artist or my web store at J Dalton on Sqaure   Thanks! 

Charmed - Lessons in Choosing Charms for Gifts

Charms have been a part of jewelry for thousands of years. Symbols of religion, symbols of special community groups (think Masons) and even symbols of trades like doctor, nurse, and sailors. They often represent something about the person that they are known for or that they like. These are stamped word charms like love, joy, hope, and peace. When buying for friends and family there are somethings to keep in mind when buying charms so that they will be lasting favorites.

ENAMELS

First of all enamel charms are pretty. They have color and enhance the details of stamping outlined in the metal. Enamel charms have texture and can be eye catching but their care can be complex. First of all many kinds of enamels will dissolve when immersed in jewelry cleaning agents or exposed to home cleaning water excessively. Even sterling silver charms can be damaged if improper agents are used. It might be best to hand polish them or to go with a colorless charm if your friend or you wear jewelry often. Second you need to be sure that they are lead content compliant. Vintage charms from foreign countries can actually be very harmful.

Check charms around the edges to see if any of the enamel is flaking away. Even new products, especially those bought at Discount Marts or Dollar Stores of any kind. They can wear out in just one season if they already have chips or flakes of any kind. If you have doubts, leave it out!

MIXED METALS -

Copper is making huge splash these days with the steam punk trends and new world styles. What you need to know is that while some kinds of metals can be mixed others should not be for lasting style. The charms on the earrings featured here are brass over copper. The top is new copper and the bottom has an antiqued finish. Over time the tops will patina to match the bottom. No problems there really but the problem comes when silver and brass are mixed, silver and copper are mixed, or gold tone and copper or silver together. Metals oxidize at different rates of speed. While brass and copper can be cleaned in pieces together, bridge and costume jewelry often have copper that is plated with silver or gold. Frequent cleaning can strip your charms of their finish. Stay away from mixed metals in charm bracelets so that you can be sure that the patina will evenly occur. Hand polishing with cloth is the best method always for cleaning costume or bridge jewelry charms. Also note that gunmetal finish is likely to make jewelry look dull. It is better for Gothic and "dark moods" themes rather than girl stuff. Gun metal finish with silver also leaves a cheap look if not carefully designed. Also keep charm bracelets in a bag with a piece of chalk. It will extend the wear life. 

BALANCING -

Charms are cute when added to ends of bracelets or necklaces. There are some important factors in choosing charms for them. First of all charms need to be proportionate to the beads themselves or smaller. Bracelets are going in and out of pockets and getting banged on things. The last thing one wants is something the size of a golf ball swinging about their wrist. The best rule of thumb is 12 mm is the max, or about the size of a dime is max. They also should not hinder clasps or closures if you are adding them post production. In the above pic you can see two charms that are paired very well, because they compliment, not over whelm the original contents.

OUT OF BALANCE

Balance is also about colors, shapes, and sizes. Try to choose charms that will go together well. In this piece the charms are balanced in size and are asymmetrical in the upper and lower halves. The shapes though are  not the best. The four charms that are circular disrupt the heart shapes and filigree sliders. Also the handmade crystal charms would have been better placed last and all of the metallic charms to the center. 

Themes-

While most of us don't buy jewelry for people we really don't know, sometimes we need to be careful buying for those that we do. You probably would not buy this cameo for your uncle the carpenter, unless he really loved them for some reason... I have heard from many of my customers that they once said they liked something or did a hobby for a while, and then wound up with a pile of junk from that hobby they had no use for. For example people who play soccer might like soccer charms, but I would suggest going with mixed elements that show more than just the soccer aspect of your friend's hobbies. If your friend also bakes , plays tennis or sews, it is good to make a mix. This way they will have more than one reason to wear what you are giving them. If they quit soccer there are other things that they can still find relevant in their bracelet. 

KNOW YOUR ABS - OPPS!! ABCs! 

Proof reading is essential! Sometime manufactures make mistakes in spelling. Please also before you but name bracelets or letter charms be sure that they are correct. Some people go by nicknames or job titles such as "coach" or "boss", but that doesn't mean that they want to see that in their jewelry either. I had a friend that everyone called "Scooter" in high school. I though it was cute. He actually told me as adults that it was a put down he really hated. Who knew? Ask spouses and other close friends if you are unsure.. but no matter what be sure it is spelled correctly!

Thanks for stopping by! 

Like what you see? Here is the link to my online store for more items by me, J Dalton, International Artist. 


J Dalton Artist

Clasps, Closures, and Hook Findings - Understanding Those "Thingys" in Jewelry Jargon

 Quick Guide to Basic Clasps and Closures

Descriptions are everything but not everyone is an expert in  jewelry in-house jargon. Sometimes online stores words to describe what you can't see in smaller pics. Being able to manage putting on and taking off your purchases is a very important thing. You want to know what words to look for in your favorite designs and what words to use when you are ordering something as well. 

 Some clasps are much more complicated than others. With new innovations in technology, fads change even more quickly and it leaves the consumer wondering what happened to the last clasp they just learned how to use. 

Here is a small vocabulary with pictures list to help you navigate regular jewelry clasp jargon this holiday season.

Clasps - should signify the mechanical item that allows you to connect ends of jewelry so that it stays on.

Lobster clasp - Often called the "boy friend clasp" because they can be hard to use in bracelets. Hook shaped closure that uses the small lever on the left hand side to pry open space that allows hook to pass over jump ring or circle shaped loops.  Can come in a large variety of metals.  Not always good for people who have trouble with coordination or seeing. - You might want to try a magnetic clasp instead 

Toggle Bar - This closure is a bar and circle mechanism that is much easier for many people who do not have someone to help them put on bracelets. Bar is inserted through circle vertically and simply returned to horizontal shape for closure. Much easier to do one handed, but can be difficult for people who cannot see or have coordination issues, you may want to use a magnetic clasp instead. Upside is they can come in many fin themes and have lots of detail or be very plain. 

Magnetic Clasp - Clasp that has magnets that hold closure together. Usually ball or tubular shaped and they snap themselves together when close enough to catch. - Downside is that they cannot support the weight of gemstones, and if you love your cellphone or tablet, you need to be sure to remove your jewelry from your purse and pockets! Can be in a variety of metals and shapes.

Hooks are very pretty some are "S" shaped others are just what you expect. They tend to be easy to put on with necklaces. The downside is that they fall off easier when there is not a lot of weighted materials like gemstones to help pull the necklace closed all the time. Can be in many shapes, finishes, and sizes. 

Spring Ring clasps are usually the standard for clasps on fashion jewelry chains. They tend to last longer than lobster claws, but are much harder to put on. They are usually better for children's jewelry when you don't want that Easter or B-day necklace lost for kids that are about 6 - 10 years. They are often terrible for anyone who has coordination problems or problems seeing.

This guide is not complete, but you can email me with questions at tahituguese@gmail.com and I will try to get back with you asap. Thanks for reading. Here is the address to my online store. 

J Dalton Artist

Crystal Crazy - How to Be Sure What You're Buying

In today's world more than ever people are bargain hunting at craft shows and re-sale shops for that perfect buy. While many crafters are honest hard working people, many don't know the difference in between crystal brands. Others mislabel to entice customers with flea market pricing. Here are some helpful facts to help you make the best purchases and get what you are paying for.

What is crystal? it is defined as "Crystal is a highly transparent glass, with a high refractive index".  
The refractive index (what makes it shiny) is elevated because of lead content. Polishing this material with fire changes the finish and increases sparkle. Some colors, especially reds and purples cost much more due to lead content and production costs.

The leaders in industry:

Swarovski ® has been in business for more than 100 years in Austria, and now operate in about 170 countries. They have perfected their technique and manufacture crystals that are the world's standard for quality in their products. Their product is machine cut, and is very, very, precise. They have consistent quality in dimensions and the kind of faceting that is used. Real Swarovski® crystals shine from inside of the crystal, and not on the surface. Many of their items have multiple layers of color with in the facets. AB polished items, or fire polished as many know them, have intensive reflections. While sometimes they have color lots that were dyed incorrectly, they do not typically have any miss cuts or miss drills to buy. Odd lots mistakes are always labeled as such and oddly enough are in high demand for that limited edition. If a hole in a crystal bead seems off or a regular bead cut such as a bi-cone bead seems to have mistakes, chances are it is a knock off.

Here is an example of  Swarovski material.

Notice that these crystals reflect from inside and have a up and down reflection pattern. All are cut exactly the same. Only Swarovski ®  and high caliber crystal companies have this kind of internal shine. You will also note that the quality of findings, (parts that you make jewelry with besides the beads) is also very high. Most often in sterling or sterling filled. 

Precoisa Crystal ®  is a brand that comes from the Czech Republic and is the leader in Czech Crystal quality and components. This crystal is beautiful and worth purchasing, but has a very different reflective quality from other breads. Precoisa ®  is machine cut also. Common designs such as heart charms or bi-cones with major production flaws are not generally sold. QC is very high with the two a fore mentioned companies. 

Here is a pic of some work done with Precoisa ®. Notice that it has color and great cuts, but the reflective surface is on the exterior of the bead. The first example is cut. The second is reflections.

notice the surface reflections

Celestial Crystals® and Starlight Crystals® are carried by many beading shops, online stores, and even retail stores. They are generally pretty and usable, but they cut with the different techniques and have at times inconsistencies in color and shape that can be hard to ignore for crafters and for buyers. The words "Chinese cut crystal" are a clue for quality as well in any crystal product. Please notice the ends of these  beads and the dimensions, in the picture below. Some bi-cones in the example have very pointy ends and others dull. This is not something you will find with top makers. They are also at times off in color lots because the dying techniques vary and color quality can suffer. I do use them in my work for run of the mill bracelets and in "kiddie bling", but they are always labeled so my customers know what they are getting. The price also reflects the difference. No surprises!

German Crystal and Egyptian Crystals are of good quality but have been cut with a different technique than Austrian and Czech crystal. Egyptian crystals are made with German techniques. Asfour® is a good quality brand. Their baroque crystal pendants tend to be stunning. Some are cut by hand, but have a very high quality and are worth the value. Here are some hand cuts on a round bead. They have a slightly different kind of faceting, but you can see that they are indeed a quality item.  The tip - they are not perfectly round and have a wide surface to the faceting. While it has an interior shine like its Austrian cousin, the hand cutting changes the way you see the spectrum.

Although not as expensive, the quality is very high.

Here is a little help with materials in general. 

Acrylic material is light weight, often has little pieces that show they were pressed and have a tendency to get scratched on the surface. AB finish is painted on chemically. Weight is usually the easiest way to tell as many companies are making high quality "crystal like" beads. High Quality acrylic is a good product, but the price is much lower than in crystal.

Plain glass does not have the shine or the shimmer effects that crystals have. Many glass bi-cones are not faceted and have a dull finish. Glass can be pretty, but the buying price is not as high as Austrian crystals and the details in cuts can be muddled in a press like acrylic. 

Real crystals come from many countries, but quality and technique are what make the real value. Even Chinese Crystal is real, but again it is the final result that you are paying for. 

Some merchants make mistakes, but many people use "Swarovski®  " as a buzz word for "crystal". Especially pieces that contain bi-cones, a cut made popular by Austrian companies.  If your crafter can't tell you where they bought the crystals, you may want to think before spending a lot on something. If the surface reflection doesn't seem right to you, you should point it out. Any good and honest crafter can tell you where they buy their stock and at times product details. It is often ingrained into their minds. I buy products from 8 different companies. I can tell you where I bought each item because all hardcore crafters tend to be loyal to their product suppliers to keep their own products consistent. I hope that you have found this information helpful. Here is an address to my online store. 

https://squareup.com/market/josephine-m-dalton